|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
So to choose a colour for yourself first decide what level your hair colour is naturally between 1 & 10 (lets say you are a level 5) then choose the colour you would like to be say, medium ash blonde. This has a number 7/1 (level 7 tone ash) and would lighten your hair 2 levels/shades. The ash would suppress the gold tones. Undertones Just a word of warning here, as you lighten your hair you unleash hidden and dangerous undertones. In very simple terms hair colour is made of blue /red/yellow pigment. As you lighten your hair you remove the blue pigment. From level 1 to level 4 there is enough blue to dominate and give cool browns, at level 5 the red pigment starts to show through (you will notice on most colour charts the best reds are start 5/ or 6/) and as you get to level 7 the blue pigment cooling influence has gone and the yellow pigment is starting to show through. With the dominant red pigment at level 7/ & 8/ you find your fiery coppers - great if that's what your aiming for (day glow motorway orange is not everybody's choice!) Level 9 & 10 are where the light blonde tones are found; the red & blue pigments have been removed from the hair and degrees of yellow pigment decide lightness of the hair. Warning if you bleach all the yellow pigment out of the hair to achieve white, you risk weakening and damaging the hair its best to lift to very light blonde and then put a bleach toner on the hair. the hair. It is best to lift to very light blonde and then put a bleach toner on the hair. |
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
| Low P.H. shampoo & conditioner The cuticle can be closed by using mild acid shampoos and conditioners. Their P.H. should be between 4.4 to 5.5 on the ph scale. |
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
Too Yellow Hair that is too yellow has suffered the loss of pigment
described above. To correct this the yellow needs to be toned down.
This is achieved by using a colour from the opposite side of the
colour chart. Exactly opposite is not always needed as we only want
to tone the colour so if you look at the colour chart orange/yellow
is opposite blue/green and blue/green is the base for ash toners
.....simple! Resistant Some grey hair is just very resistant to colour probably due to a very tight and compact cuticle (link to cuticle graphic) one solution is to increase the strength of the peroxide used in the colour. Under strength product With many different strength products on the market it's easy to be using the wrong one -- semi's, quasi colours, colour baths, tints etc. etc. all do different jobs. Some of these are designed not to give total coverage for a more natural effect. Another possibility is that air has got into the product and it has lost its strength. A barrier It's also possible a barrier has formed stopping the product from penetrating into the hair. The most common reason for this in recent years is the increased use of gels and wax. Hair spray could also cause this problem. Another likely cause is a two-in-one shampoo-conditioner which can quickly build a barrier on the outside of the hair. Too dark or too even Too Even Nothing gives a hair colour away, or looks more artificial than a flat dark even colour. Only the very darkest hair is all one colour and even black hair tends too have blue tones in it. Our eyes and brains are scanning all the time but we simply don't notice the ‘normal’ however we take a second look if something isn't quite right. Darker roots and lighter ends are ‘normal’ but a dead even light or dark colour isn't. Adding darker and lighter colour to the hair not only makes it look more natural but adds life texture and energy to the hair. This can be done to dramatic effect or just to give subtle texture. Too Dark Once you've made your hair too dark by putting a colour on it and then want it to be lighter you have a slight problem, because colour doesn't easily lift colour. In fact to lift artificial colour out of the hair usually requires bleach and bleach on coloured hair tends to be not good for the condition of the hair and also unpredictable! This is probably a job for a professional. Colour fade/red fade This is very similar to Too Light/Too Yellow. The graphic there shows the open cuticle that lets colour out of the hair with reds in particular bleeding out very easily. Most colour houses have worked very hard on improving the ‘stickability’ of their reds but fading is still a problem. The best way of preserving your beautiful new colour is to make sure you have a low P.H. shampoo and conditioner and not one that merely claims on the label ‘for colour treated hair". The marketing man who knows nothing about shampoo won't get you that easy any more!
|
|||||||||||||||
